https://www.beckycarruthers.com/yachen-gar-2017 daily 0.75 2019-09-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981006027-EKWMTBTTQ84S0O9KZZPW/IMG_1495.JPG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Inside Yachen Gar The nearest town is two mountain ranges and an expansive plain away, yet here in the remote eastern plateau of Tibet a thriving nunnery of 10,000 has developed. Gar literally means “camp”, which is how this now-epic institution began. Over the years as more people arrived, ramshackle buildings sprung up in disorganised clusters and roads were built through the middle. These days the village has limited power and phone signal, but still lacks basic sanitary facilities and clean water, leaving it stuck between its old slum-like appearance and a modern liveable town. In 2019 authorities began the destruction of Yachen Gar in the interest of public health and safety. It’s unknown what they will allow to remain. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981006027-EKWMTBTTQ84S0O9KZZPW/IMG_1495.JPG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Inside Yachen Gar The nearest town is two mountain ranges and an expansive plain away, yet here in the remote eastern plateau of Tibet a thriving nunnery of 10,000 has developed. Gar literally means “camp”, which is how this now-epic institution began. Over the years as more people arrived, ramshackle buildings sprung up in disorganised clusters and roads were built through the middle. These days the village has limited power and phone signal, but still lacks basic sanitary facilities and clean water, leaving it stuck between its old slum-like appearance and a modern liveable town. In 2019 authorities began the destruction of Yachen Gar in the interest of public health and safety. It’s unknown what they will allow to remain. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981063489-6NCEJWA6ZX4OB8XNMVF1/IMG_1634.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Ramshackle houses Along one of the main streets, ramshackle houses lean against each other for support. Newly arriving nuns build with whatever materials and assistance they can find or afford. Some nuns build small boxed on top of their houses, just big enough to sit upright cross-legged in, for private meditation purposes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981079166-KKOLT06QWXNEWFNSTXA2/IMG_1648.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Room-mates Personal space is not a luxury afforded to the nuns of Yachen Gar. Many share their shacks with one or two others, finding it cheaper and warmer to share resources, especially in winter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981065139-HFDEV17ZPLTQ5E9GTH1N/IMG_1636.JPG Yachen Gar, 2017 - The one paved street While arrivals boomed at Yachen, infrastructure development fell behind. Most of Yachen’s walkways and public areas remain muddy, or half-paved. The central artery through the houses is so far the only complete road-with-sidewalk paved street. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981183606-JOTC9VYD98IM4KO4QT5L/IMG_1496.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Lunch time The exterior of a typical restaurant in Yachen Gar - made of the same makeshift material as the houses, and displaying the menu on a bi-lingual Tibetan and Chinese poster outside (with images for those who are illiterate). The entire nunnery is vegetarian, an unusual move for Tibet where even senior monks eat yak meat on a regular basis. Here though, they believe that living a vegetarian life is an important way to practice compassion for living beings - an important tenet of Buddhism. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981183302-QK7WN2NN0LP2Y2Z6WXCK/IMG_1499.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - The convenience store This little shack contains one of many convenience stores around the village. These are run by local laypeople to supply the nuns with their daily dose of snacks in the form of red bull, sprite, instant pot noodles, lollipops, and vegetarian fake meat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981189552-XLKSOOQ36L5S1BMYKMRH/IMG_1500.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Dress shopping Another small shop shack, this one supplies robes and clothing accessories for men and women in Yachen Gar. Although the number of nuns in Yachen far outweighs the number of monks, both are catered for equally by this man’s shop. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981214644-6HKNDEJMHL2RC95746XO/IMG_1428.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Do not go this way At an intersection outside the main assembly hall, which is shared by monks and nuns on alternate days so they don’t interact, is a sign which reminds each which way they should go. To the left, monks are directed toward the men’s living area of Yachen Gar. To the right, nuns are directed to the bridge that’ll take them across the river to their part of the village. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981349799-W76S7PXWRA5SPBLG3P7K/IMG_1472.JPG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Rush hour at Yachen Around mid-morning, the nuns pour over the bridge from their houses across the river toward the main assembly hall, for the daily teaching led by their Rinpoche. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981340491-EZ13689RDI36GV0AVVO8/IMG_1470.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Playfulness Nuns of all ages live at Yachen Gar, and attend the daily teachings and prayers. The women support each other as sisters, and playfulness is encouraged in the young. This young woman was playing a game with her friend, pretending to hide behind her hat and not see her. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981341708-VGKL6NEU6Y7I0HK92CIO/IMG_1461.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Across the river On the other side of the river now, the steady stream of maroon-robed nuns continues on toward the main assembly hall. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981354725-7D9JR36GUV0SCU8RW1JK/IMG_1484.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Running late One late-comer skips as she descends the hill to the teaching ground to join her sisters. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981359610-LR6NFQTGMKPVC1016O5Z/IMG_1632.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Alone in Yachen With all the nuns already assembled for the daily teaching, this last straggler hurries alone down the main street of Yachen Gar. She’s still got a long way to go, to reach the gold-roofed temple in the distance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981468991-2LM5F2CJGFHWE9XE5D2L/IMG_2109.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Entering the assembly area Around the gates of the main assembly hall and grounds, laypeople gather among the nuns to hear the precious teachings. The grounds and hall are packed tight, so the laypeople are left to find seats wherever they can. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981471736-XCBQ3OFYPABQSKGOA5Y7/IMG_2112.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - The precious teachings From a window halfway up the main assembly hall, the Rinpoche speaks into a microphone, delivering his daily teaching. The crowd raise a sea of umbrellas to protect themselves from the harsh high-altitude sun, while they listen, take notes, read along, or become completely distracted on their phones. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981526030-YR062SZ7UVBXLAQGGZE1/IMG_1522.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - In prayer The sea of nuns listen carefully and pray along with Rinpoche’s instruction. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981630483-NB53ZTE1697VHLBYIR9K/IMG_1570.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Faces to the sky Young and old, weak and strong, all attend the teachings with staunch faith that it will enable them to clear negative karma from their lives and progress toward Nirvana. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981617363-FVM3PSL669UUYI8QN1TT/IMG_1535.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Help from technology The Rinpoche’s microphone is not only for volume, it also transmits his words via shortwave radio so that nuns who are hard of hearing can tune in on personal devices and listen through headphones. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981617993-HWM4A7WNWULEV0VK3L11/IMG_1547.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Homework in class While others listen passively, some nuns toward the back scrawl notes and copy from books and scriptures, completing their homework or study for the day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981642258-9JYV4V84SXDDFN3TBOO8/IMG_1574.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Sharing a joke Like any school class, there are always those who whisper jokes or stories during the lesson, lifting the mood and lightening their friends’ serious expressions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981642886-3JVM5LSR38YXBJWLQ5GX/IMG_1577.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Boredom The young nuns and monks are the ones who struggle the most with paying attention during the lesson, which can sometimes go for hours on end in the hot sun. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981628852-B4PDPO1YU8IZU5K5QAN5/IMG_1566.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Struggling to keep up This young monk, sitting amongst the nuns, appeared exasperated as he struggled to stay awake, stay cool, stay focussed, and stay on top of where the Rinpoche was up to in his reading. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568981787158-IY8SWTXLLYZMSAL55EMC/IMG_1381.JPEG Yachen Gar, 2017 - Free time, photo time While the nuns are in the midst of their lessons, the monks have free time to enjoy themselves and make the most of the bright weather. On top of the hill overlooking Yachen Gar, these monks wanted to pose as kung-fu heroes while their friend took photos on his iPhone. https://www.beckycarruthers.com/yachen-gar-2016 daily 0.75 2019-09-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878736329-ON8O0OD1PRO0PGTTRYB2/IMG_2098.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - Overlooking Yachen Gar Deep within the remote mountains of western Sichuan Province, known to Tibetans as Kham, the monastic town of Yachen Gar is home to 10,000 nuns and monks from across Tibet and China. Most arrive with nothing, and build their own ramshackle houses in a shantytown-like arrangement, using each others walls for support. Women far outnumber the men, who have only begun arriving in recent years and are confined to their own side of the river. In 2016, Yachen Gar was relatively untouched by outsiders and unseen by the government. It’s residents were happy, friendly, and open. Sadly, in 2019 Yachen Gar faced the same fate as it’s male-dominated counterpart Larung Gar. Police and armed personnel evicted 80% of the monastic town’s residents and began bulldozing their houses so they could not return. This is ongoing now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878736329-ON8O0OD1PRO0PGTTRYB2/IMG_2098.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - Overlooking Yachen Gar Deep within the remote mountains of western Sichuan Province, known to Tibetans as Kham, the monastic town of Yachen Gar is home to 10,000 nuns and monks from across Tibet and China. Most arrive with nothing, and build their own ramshackle houses in a shantytown-like arrangement, using each others walls for support. Women far outnumber the men, who have only begun arriving in recent years and are confined to their own side of the river. In 2016, Yachen Gar was relatively untouched by outsiders and unseen by the government. It’s residents were happy, friendly, and open. Sadly, in 2019 Yachen Gar faced the same fate as it’s male-dominated counterpart Larung Gar. Police and armed personnel evicted 80% of the monastic town’s residents and began bulldozing their houses so they could not return. This is ongoing now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878780590-OBV9O8UE3LNLAOZW1UE4/IMG_2204.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - On the way to prayers Contrary to common western belief, nuns do not spend their entire day in meditation or peaceful rest. Much of their daily schedule is spent in class studying the sutra and tantra, learning to perform particular rites, studying philosophy, and - for many who never received an education at home - learning to read and write. As in any school, there are those who study hard and complete the homework ahead of time, and those who leave it til the last minute. These nuns were memorising pages of scripture on their way to the assembly hall one afternoon, but whether they were getting ahead or falling behind I can’t say. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878821049-1N4HHJLWYI69HLP07T6G/IMG_2287.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - Afternoon prayers Due to the enormous number of nuns who have made Yachen Gar their home, they are divided into large classes who must share the different assembly halls on a rotating basis, each taking turns to gather and recite their twice-daily prayers. Many nuns and monks alike are never without their prayer wheel in hand. Containing 100,000 repetitions of the mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum”, they believe that every rotation of the wheel is equivalent to speaking the mantra 100,000 times. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878808853-8HDCSE4ZZ82SAA4IEYYL/IMG_2264.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - Boredom and education Over on the men’s side of the river, they also gather twice a day to recite their prayers, prayer wheels in hand. It’s common for boys as young as seven to be sent to monasteries to become junior monks, although as this image shows they don’t always have the attention span required to make it through prayers. In the old days, it was expected for Tibetan families to send at least one son to the monastery, and if he did well it was a source of pride for the family. These days, boys are encouraged to go to China instead for education. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878805484-3XREU5GF76CBJLU264L4/IMG_2265.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - A natural young monk While some younger monks struggle to remain focussed, others take to it naturally and even ask to join the monastery from a young age. Tibetans explain this as being their karma - in a past life, they must have been very good and devout people, who are now blessed with strong faith, a smart mind, and steadfast devotion to the Buddha’s teachings. These boys will attain much positive merit over their lifetime, becoming closer to enlightenment than the majority of their monk brothers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878786425-U7PMOGK75VT9PY04P6EH/IMG_2212.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - The nunnery nursery Not all women in robes at Yachen Gar have been nuns their whole lives. Women aren’t encouraged to become nuns in the same way that men are to become monks, so many don’t choose this path until later. Some women arrive pregnant, or with small children. Their histories differ - husbands who died, husbands who beat them, unplanned pregnancies - yet they are all received the same by the community here. Their children accompany them until they are old enough to attend the nunnery nursery and primary school, where they will learn reading, writing, math, and a variety of other subjects. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878775076-W7Z0A1YWQMH2MJ41T4Z1/IMG_2198.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - Nomads and nuns In the nunnery primary school, the children are dressed in a mix of lay and monastic clothing, reflecting their different backgrounds. Some are the children of nomads who live around the outskirts of Yachen Gar, there to provide the nuns with yak milk & butter. The nearest town is two mountain ranges away, too far for many to take their children. Some children came to Yachen with their mother when she took the robes and became a nun. Some were even born here, and call it their home. These children dress like little Rinpoches in shining satin shirts and jackets, imitating the great teachers who lead the nuns in prayer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878790717-IROQFENC3I0I5ZELG98H/IMG_2243.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - The prayer wheels Pilgrims from all over the region, and from as far afield as Lhasa and China, come to Yachen Gar to make offerings and receive blessings. One of the main activities performed by pilgrims is to follow the looping trail of prayer wheels around the main assembly hall and mani pile, spinning each wheel as they go. Similar to the handheld prayer wheels, these giant golden cylinders hold hundreds of thousands of printed mantra inside them, so that each rotation is as effective as speaking it that many times. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878755100-9FOV8O7U8LPKHGUETYQQ/IMG_2124.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - The outer kora Around the outer perimeter of the monastic town is a trail, also lined sporadically by prayer wheels. This is called the kora, meaning “to go around”. Walking a kora is an act of devotion and offering, but is also enjoyed as a social event by many who take the opportunity away from the crowds to giggle and gossip as they walk. Others , meanwhile, use the opportunity to memorise their scriptures or practice recitations aloud. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878754782-THT49QT8SRW4VUV2G2PG/IMG_2110.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - Dancing on the hillside In the evening, around the outer kora where the trail climbs the hill, these young monks and nuns were practicing a dance. Although the men and women of Yachen Gar usually do not socialise together, this group appeared to be good friends and didn’t mind each other’s company. The women sat on the grass, singing classic melodic tunes, while the men danced in the evening light, only occasionally realising how badly out of time they were. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878721648-9ISZOGQSLCDH6KRPS7RW/IMG_2102.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - Mentor and mentee The same evening, an older monk and his young mentee wander slowly across the hillside, deep in discussion. Beyond them, surrounded by a bright white fence, is the town’s charnel ground - an important place to meditate on impermanence, and for cutting apart one’s ego. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568878733291-1RTXYMW8F19S2GA479E5/IMG_2103.jpg Yachen Gar, 2016 - Guru Rinpoche atop the hill On top of the hill, overlooking the entire Yachen Gar complex, stands this impressive statue of mighty Guru Rinpoche - the second most important figure in Tibetan Buddhism after the Buddha himself. Close to sunset, a sun halo appeared, which perfectly framed the Guru in a rainbow - a motif frequently seen in Tibetan paintings. https://www.beckycarruthers.com/bisket-jatra-2017 daily 0.75 2019-09-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977776962-HQ7XLECFONLVV1D5HTKJ/IMG_4927.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - The chariot of Bisket Jatra Each year around March or April, the town of Bhaktapur in Kathmandu, Nepal, hosts its annual Bisket Jatra festival. For days leading up to the opening of the week-long event, a chariot is constructed in the main square of the ancient city, piece by piece. At the close of the festival, the chariot is dismantled and stored carefully for another year. Here, local boys play on the half-finished chariot in the days before the festival. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977776962-HQ7XLECFONLVV1D5HTKJ/IMG_4927.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - The chariot of Bisket Jatra Each year around March or April, the town of Bhaktapur in Kathmandu, Nepal, hosts its annual Bisket Jatra festival. For days leading up to the opening of the week-long event, a chariot is constructed in the main square of the ancient city, piece by piece. At the close of the festival, the chariot is dismantled and stored carefully for another year. Here, local boys play on the half-finished chariot in the days before the festival. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977797856-UV5IG3XWBLATACE9FIR6/IMG_5318.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - Crowds gather in Bhaktapur On the first day of Bisket Jatra, thousands of people crowd into Bhaktapur to see the chariot careen through the narrow streets, pulled by teams of local men. It’s a spectacle for tourists and Nepali alike, who follow the chariot en masse from square to square over the course of a few hours. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977776345-TSM5UT2KF55ADZO9BCN3/IMG_5300.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - When the momentum stops The chariot’s journey begins at the uppermost square of Bhaktapur, and travels through narrow streets and alleyways downhill to the bottom square, propelled by a combination of gravity and manpower. However, occasionally the chariot becomes stuck and its downhill momentum isn’t enough to keep it going. In these cases, teams of men on either side of it yank it from either end in turn until the large wheels begin rolling again and it carries on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977787609-MSL580T65WITR3J2OQ36/IMG_5302.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - Correcting course Here, the chariot conveniently lost its momentum halfway through a turn that would have sent it straight into a heritage building. The alleys and turns in ancient Bhaktapur are tight, and it’s not uncommon to see power lines yanked down or wooden decorative features swiped by the out-of-control chariot. To send it down the right track, teams of men and volunteers from the crowd try to correct the chariot’s course by tugging on the trailing ropes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977795282-YRR8AH3PRO81NWOO7P60/IMG_5312.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - It's easier in the audience While the young men strain and heave to turn the chariot, older onlookers and tourists quite happily stand back to enjoy the spectacle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977788843-1YZYEY2U1BK0C49QL3T5/IMG_5310.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - An unwinnable tug of war Controlling or correcting the chariot gives young men a great opportunity to test their strength, as if battling for a tug of war they’ll never win. Although some come away bruised and dirty, they’re safe from serious harm as long as they remain above the heavy chariot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977806660-OYAU5ZGNQ0PSRWO9JBHS/IMG_5331.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - From a safe distance A local Newari man looks down from his window at the crowds chasing the chariot through the streets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977805107-QMV3BC0QJNXZ61220JD2/IMG_5332.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - On the sidelines This young boy, proudly bearing the Nepali flag on his cheek, was closely minded by his older sister while they waited for the chariot to enter this final stage of its journey. Spectators can easily be trampled or crushed below the chariot wheels if they are trapped in front of it. While many young men see it as an adrenalin rush - leaping to grab hold of it as it passes, or standing in front until the last minute in a game of chicken - not all of them come away successful. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977819539-05VA556BGZDOG7J1P3D7/IMG_5345.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - The chariot re-emerges After a painful negotiation through the final tight passages, the chariot emerges down the channel into the final square. The men who’ve been pulling with all their might to encourage it to make the right turns will now have to leap clear or be struck by the dangerously careening chariot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977824764-B2DO1S7IIC9HYLL6FYVO/IMG_5351.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - Clinging to safety While two men stand joyously on the front prow of the Bisket Jatra chariot, others cling desperately to the bottom, knowing that if they let go they could be seriously injured. The chariot is now moving at speed and increasing in pace as it follows a steady and open descent to the final square. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977828473-XYD5QGR1VTPVJIUAJUBY/IMG_5353.JPG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - The young man's thrill Meanwhile other young men try to leap onto the chariot from behind, excited by the rush of riding through the crowd and being in centre stage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977835840-R3UKWPWIFBKVUBL4YTCZ/IMG_5358.JPG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - The final resting place The chariot finally slows to a halt amid a sea of spectators, both foreign and Nepali. People have been crowding the rooftops and windows for hours, waiting to see this final moment when the chariot comes to rest at the end of its journey. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568977840661-KK17C603TY81RU4N7DHV/IMG_5360.JPEG Bisket Jatra, 2017 - The journey's end Now it’s stationary and safe to approach, the crowd surges to touch the chariot and receive blessing from the deity housed inside it. The chariot will remain here for some days until the next part of its journey through the streets begins again. https://www.beckycarruthers.com/nomads-2018 daily 0.75 2020-06-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581730254852-215Y21P9TWZDUUS4IJWI/IMG_5843.JPG With Nomads, 2018 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581728569433-ANA9KETIALMA75MAFNHE/IMG_5223.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - The mission In spring 2018 I found myself accompanying a friend on an usual mission. A lover of food and Tibet, Rob had recently founded a start-up to make yak meat jerky with the aim of cracking into the health foods market. He’d so far only needed small amounts of yak meat while perfecting the recipe and process, but was now looking to scale up production and needed a stable - and plentiful - source. So with the help of a local friend, we found ourselves driving out of already-remote Hongyuan township to an even more remote countryside speckled with small farms and stupas. Here, we arrived at our destination for the morning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581728563703-GTJ81O9WXUNIHYVV9BA8/IMG_5213.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - When is a yak not a yak? Despite how commonly we refer to them as “yak”, these domesticated animals technically aren’t that. They are known properly as “dzo”, which is a cross-breed of yak and cow, making them easier to manage domestically while retaining the benefits of yak hair, milk, and meat. True yaks are much larger, with a bulkier frame, and are only male - the female of the species are known as dri. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581728833188-NNE85ULPONYN83NFYJIJ/IMG_5335.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - Still nomadic by name One of the many developments brought by Chinese rule was permanent winter homes for nomads. Throughout the winter months, when the ground is frozen and there’s little available pasture, families now have a permanent dwelling to return to. In Spring, when the grasses have grown again in the higher meadows, the family will pack up their tent and precious belongings into a truck and head back to the higher altitudes with their herd. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581729534883-SSAXTBAXQYPX68OB23HV/IMG_5288.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - The nomadic chupa By far the most comfortable and versatile item of Tibetan clothing, the chupa (choo-pa) varies from region to region and can usually be a good indication of where a person is from, and what they do. A nomadic chupa is characterised by elongated sleeves (which serve like gloves in the cold) and an oversized pouch in the front, useful for storing a day’s food when out on the mountain, or keeping small animals and children safe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581728499296-RDMAT0OKW63RKM32C7GZ/IMG_5179.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - The communal valley The wide, fertile winter pasture is sectioned off with invisible lines, agreed upon by each of the neighbouring families to ensure they all have good grass available for their herd, and no section suffers from over-grazing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581728832794-QH2GDPRHEZW59MTTLYRX/IMG_5313.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - Freedom In the valleys and on the mountain slopes the only fences are those along roads - and sometimes not even there. Yaks are mainly left to roam free, but it is the responsibility of the herdsman to keep check of where they are, and bring back any stragglers with a quick rock from his slingshot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581729705984-RKZG9PZHC2A7V4KP3QST/IMG_5279.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - Sending them out Each day for nomads starts and ends with their yaks - sending them out to pasture, and bringing them back in. Families living near each other share resources to take care of their herds through the day, with family members taking turns to spend the day out on the hills. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581729852813-OBRLKBTYV9KKYUFCVX4E/IMG_5384.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - Norbu In Tibetan language, norbu means “precious”. Given their usefulness to Tibetans, it’s no coincidence that the term for baby yak is nor. Also, aren’t they just precious? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581728757756-S8L0Q9AB20NJSDOZT24M/IMG_5858.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - Butter for breakfast Back inside, breakfast is prepared from the Tibetan staples of tsampa and butter. Tsampa, in the wooden box, is finely ground barley flour that for breakfast gets mixed with a knob of yak butter and hot black tea to form a dense and filling doughy ball. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581728876470-5F0AN00P9INCWPBKAJIR/IMG_5843.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - Butter tea A favoured drink of Tibetans (that disturbs many outsiders) is butter tea: black tea, boiled with a large chunk of yak butter and a dose of salt. It’s rich and satisfying, filling like a soup, and has the added bonus of moisturising your chapped lips! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581728903775-9BJ9YY7T72U6FGYOSIJH/IMG_5824.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - Digging in Finally, after discussing the family’s yaks and tasting their butter, it was time to sample their meat. Early spring is not the best time for yak meat - after winter, the yaks are thin and their meat has lost some of its richness. Many families will dry and store whole legs and sides of yak in late autumn, to eat over a period of months until the animals are plump and ready again in summer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581728932934-GC2ZJ8MT6QDCF23561HH/IMG_5352.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - A feast for nomads As guests, we were treated to a full feast of Tibetan delights - boiled yak meat, tsampa, butter tea, and fried bread - the bread being the only thing not derived from a yak. I can only speak for the butter, but apparently the quality of the meat was excellent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581728985282-63A70W2SZJY7QEU7CYGM/IMG_5485.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - Mission accomplished Rob and local friend Kush (far right and far left, respectively), with the pair of nomads (centre) who so generously let us into their home for the morning and shared their food with us. Now, how to transport kilos of fresh yak meat from the middle of nowhere in Tibet to the other side of China? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581729974316-ENRHSENG3XAMG3G0QSEV/IMG_5041.JPG With Nomads, 2018 - Cutie. He knows how cute he is. https://www.beckycarruthers.com/musings daily 0.75 2020-04-05 https://www.beckycarruthers.com/musings/price-politics-and-great-expectations monthly 0.5 2020-02-19 https://www.beckycarruthers.com/musings/screw-the-to-do-list-make-a-done-list-for-mental-health monthly 0.5 2020-03-14 https://www.beckycarruthers.com/musings/i-thought-i-knew-what-agency-experience-meant-until-i-started-working-in-an-agency monthly 0.5 2020-02-27 https://www.beckycarruthers.com/musings/welcome-to-minute-musings monthly 0.5 2020-02-15 https://www.beckycarruthers.com/musings/fear-and-gratitude monthly 0.5 2020-04-05 https://www.beckycarruthers.com/ganden-ngamcho-2017 daily 0.75 2020-02-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581736608895-1XM7ZOA4WMO2VGM6R122/IMG_0941.JPG Ganden Ngamcho, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1581736608895-1XM7ZOA4WMO2VGM6R122/IMG_0941.JPG Ganden Ngamcho, 2017 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1584157790861-POVBA8W96D0JDEICXIKD/IMG_5462.JPG Scotland, 2018 https://www.beckycarruthers.com/creative daily 0.75 2022-02-05 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1591921792408-FAK8GB67V0I7JL9B8SXK/2.jpg Creative - Last Call - short film, 2020 Made as part of VF48Hours Filmmaking Competition: Lockdown Edition. My role: actress, writer, producer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1591921803600-R2MCEJU1Q4NLD0GY9B4B/1.jpg Creative - Curated - short film, 2019 Made as part of VF48Hours Filmmaking Competition. Awards won for Best Script and Best Cinematography. My role: writer, production assistant. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1591921757339-S13YVHCKIRFFS1D2AT3V/3+copy.jpg Creative - travel pro - non-fiction/journal, 2019 The follow-up to How To Kick Ass At Travel Planning, Travel Pro is an on-the-road guide for travellers, with mixed pages of lined journal paper, dotted grid paper, and informative content to refer to on your journey such as common scams and illnesses, and how to deal with culture shock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1591921455175-DUVPLONHRJAJUCFLRTWG/6.jpg Creative - The Tibetan adventure book - children’s book, 2014 An activity book full of puzzles and activities designed to educate and engage children with Tibetan culture, language, and locations. The book was hand-illustrated by me, and put into print by a local school in Lhasa. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1630207947213-VWHJ25XKWBVGQH9RTP70/The+Dripping+Poster Creative - The Dripping - short film, 2021 The Dripping - short film, 2021 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1591921771995-R7RABPXOULEN046WI2OC/HOW+TO+KICK+ASS+AT+TRAVEL+PLANNING.jpg Creative - how to kick ass at travel planning - non-fiction, 2019 The ultimate guide to planning the ultimate first big trip abroad, whether you’re 18, 28, or 80. Packed with step by step, detailed information and relatable stories, How To Kick Ass At Travel Planning is a companion to make the planning process easy, so you can get on and enjoy your trip. It’s available in Kindle and paperback from Amazon. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1591921482950-CQ2R4PUD34EH143B90W6/5.jpg Creative - Kia ora tibet - blog, 2013-17 While living in Tibet, I recorded my adventures, daily life, and insights into Tibetan culture - modern and traditional - in this blog. Several of my posts and photos have subsequently been reshared by tourism websites and Himalayan tour company blogs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1630208082320-RK76B05NEYN0THNOAIC3/Cawthorn+Half+Hour Creative - The Cawthorn Half Hour Podcast by radio host Jim Cawthorn. My role: occasional voice actor. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1591921504029-1J3RMQ7E7CK0O9FCZG6K/3.jpg Creative - Norbu calendars - 2016-18 With business partner Robert Sherman, I helped create these Tibetan/Chinese/Gregorian calendars for Norbu Inc, a social enterprise, using our original photos and captions designed to educate and increase awareness of Tibetan culture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1591921468200-44XWQ09GMWNPO26YPYLU/4.jpg Creative - educational ESOL resources - 2017 While teaching drama in Chengdu, China, I was commissioned to write two short plays based on picture books for the level 1 & 2 classes. With limited vocabulary and a direction to rhyme, I created ‘Cool Dog, School Dog’, and ‘Flip the Dinosaur’. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1594030622557-59CNPPPG38QK3UDMIARI/IMG_8874.jpg Creative https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1594028429589-NBE2E12RKXZPS5EUUKOU/_ALY4950-Edit.jpg Creative https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1594031213793-MXLO4VMIVH67CAZ4H6IE/IMG_3135.jpg Creative https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1594033666368-3R1HARGB11IW21D01NQK/_ALY4950-Edit.jpg Creative https://www.beckycarruthers.com/copywriting daily 0.75 2023-05-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1594033596966-VIF41QMD4ZS6Q9YIIN4B/_ALY4565.jpg Copywriting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1594028150739-42XT92DOEGV2XE8TSBNR/_ALY4565.jpg Copywriting 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1630210715745-O8BGEXAOA9EXAJ0F2U2U/Untitled+design+%282%29.jpg About https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1643510816380-8MBOMRGD3R8RE4D0GC17/1.jpg About https://www.beckycarruthers.com/strategy daily 0.75 2022-01-30 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1610159768280-XRCY32J0ULCFD72QBZT3/_ALY5039.jpg Strategy https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1630212829760-Z167Y6NQ86LYV0D51UJ8/Untitled+design.jpg Strategy https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1630213693783-4KNA0QMY4162JKFVCAVE/Untitled+design.jpg Strategy https://www.beckycarruthers.com/spice-up-your-cultural-life-in-auckland daily 0.75 2019-08-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565858617603-MLATKDM7VC6EVUFRNZXJ/image-asset.jpeg Spice up your cultural life in Auckland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565858664052-YPDELOD6NPFGPH1WOGMK/the+situation+in+rural+nepal.jpg Spice up your cultural life in Auckland https://www.beckycarruthers.com/kick-ass-travel-planning daily 0.75 2020-07-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565405765809-Y5L5N3T7FTN1Z5A6CMAW/COVER+IMAGE.jpg Kick Ass Travel Planning https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1570855534087-SQG1MURC7EFXN3JEQWRB/image-asset.jpeg Kick Ass Travel Planning https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1570855500767-AVD96VTDZP5D4RHVB2OA/image-asset.jpeg Kick Ass Travel Planning https://www.beckycarruthers.com/tsurphu-monasterys-cham-dance daily 0.75 2019-08-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565866985431-5KOM4CV9KMJTI1XZYOJR/image-asset.jpeg Tsurphu Monastery's Cham Dance 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565937437318-VL72B8TPSR4D7D3601IE/image-asset.jpeg On Pilgrimage in the East https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565937418343-221FSXHY69B7P0KUMJUJ/9.jpg On Pilgrimage in the East https://www.beckycarruthers.com/more-tibetan-than-tibet daily 0.75 2019-08-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565866902364-BE1CV1QJDLMZUFFB7VO8/image-asset.jpeg More Tibetan than "Tibet" https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565866842317-J8HOIVNOEONVU2VTQV9B/ARTICLE++HEADERS+%282%29.jpg More Tibetan than "Tibet" https://www.beckycarruthers.com/meeting-the-buddha-at-midnight daily 0.75 2019-08-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565865852027-O33VQEEVOARFKTTWWP27/image-asset.jpeg Meeting the Buddha at Midnight 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2019-08-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565936565090-XKD1VKAPNMQRANWH8TAZ/image-asset.jpeg Why Nepal Should Be On Every Bucket List https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565936698504-HKD0HZGX0S3CU0TXEGVE/11.jpg Why Nepal Should Be On Every Bucket List https://www.beckycarruthers.com/what-you-need-to-know-about-buddhist-pilgrimage daily 0.75 2019-08-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565938984164-RWWOCUNI3M176CI5K6TV/image-asset.jpeg What You Need To Know About Buddhist Pilgrimage https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565938965536-TIMG0VYSK4UTYQADY691/16.jpg What You Need To Know About Buddhist Pilgrimage https://www.beckycarruthers.com/8-pilgrimages-every-buddhist-should-take daily 0.75 2019-08-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565938580795-CWF2LWUWP1H2N16JH6BB/image-asset.jpeg 8 Pilgrimages Every Buddhist Should Take https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565938544724-NBVP4M2IZBAPNEOPL6DO/15.jpg 8 Pilgrimages Every Buddhist Should Take https://www.beckycarruthers.com/the-top-5-festivals-to-visit-in-tibet daily 0.75 2019-08-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565939821238-ZJ42BPVVGNA0W5BRU9H0/image-asset.jpeg The Top 5 Festivals to Visit In Tibet https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565939787067-AA5403XCIK1J0TJ87CGH/20.jpg The Top 5 Festivals to Visit In Tibet https://www.beckycarruthers.com/journey-through-the-wild-west daily 0.75 2019-08-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565937656854-FN2NPHP6OIYDPPVZXHOP/image-asset.jpeg Journey Through the Wild West https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565937627054-THQO474F990FMN9U6DJ3/10.jpg Journey Through the Wild West 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Dancing Deities of the Dragon Kingdom https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1565939589433-J8PHT9H1XDPL0JVVX8DL/19.jpg Dancing Deities of the Dragon Kingdom https://www.beckycarruthers.com/has-auckland-stolen-the-creative-crown daily 0.75 2019-09-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568513090529-BWYBYSGZO5DSAAHCNBOY/image-asset.jpeg Has Auckland Stolen the Creative Crown? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1568513139759-7N2BUIXMN7QPZ4KPGQ73/ARTICLE++HEADERS.jpg Has Auckland Stolen the Creative Crown? https://www.beckycarruthers.com/overcome-a-creative-block daily 0.75 2019-10-02 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1570006953507-J80LW1Q3MXTXK3O6W540/image-asset.jpeg How to overcome a creative block https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d4e1ce3ee94aa00016b3c37/1570007012189-PK7IVC58LJVI4OFPSTEU/ARTICLE++HEADERS.jpg How to overcome a 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