Tsurphu Monastery’s annual cham dance festival

This article originally appeared on China Tibet Online’s website on 30/05/2015.

Tsurphu Monastery, a Kagyupa institution a couple of hours drive to the west of Lhasa city, held its annual three-day festival from May 27th until May 29th, 2015.

The second day of the festival was devoted to a traditional religious dance called “Cham” which is performed by the monks of the monastery. There are several different types of dance which are performed, using different masks and costumes, and symbolising different things ranging from meditative journeys through to stories from the live of Padmasambhava – an Indian Buddhist master who is one of the most famous historical figures in Tibet for his work taming demons in the eleventh century.

A crowd of over a thousand Tibetans, and a small number of tourists both from China and overseas, gathered on the cold morning around the central courtyard of Tsurphu monastery. The hills bore remnants of snow, but the morning sun was bright and warm.

Some of the dances were slow processions, moving in circles and lines around the courtyard, while others included jumps and cartwheels from the young monk dancers. At an altitude of 4500m above sea level, it’s no wonder that most of the movements were slow and careful with only small bursts of energy.

A crowd favourite were the four men dressed in shades of gold who played the “clowns” of the day – running around between the performances and interacting with the audience. They variously picked on audience members and either brought them forward or simply stole something from where they were sitting – sometimes a backpack or a hat would be taken and placed on a statue in the courtyard, or the audience member would be given a piggyback across the open space.

Everyone looked to be enjoying the spectacle, roaring with laughter each time a new victim was picked from the audience. Many local people had arrived early to set up picnics on the ground in the front row, and seemed to enjoy the thrill that came from sitting in the front and being involved in the show.

The remaining monks from the monastery who weren’t involved in the performances joined the crowds in watching and laughing and, of course, taking endless photos and videos on their phones. 

Dances continued throughout the day, even when small snowstorms passed over the monastery. By 5pm it was time for the final act of the day, and the sun once again showed itself for the occasion. After a long break for the preparation of the final act, the monks paraded out of the main chapel of the monastery carrying parasols, victory banners, flags, trumpets, and a large gold statue of Padmasambhava.

With much fanfare and ceremony, the statue was placed on a stone in the middle of the courtyard where it shone brightly in the sun, surrounded by the colourful flags and costumes of the monks.

A small dance was performed in front of the image, and white silk scarves were offered to it, and then the day’s events appeared to be at an end. The tired crowds gathered their belongings and headed back to their cars at the end of their long day in the sun, ready to go home to rest for the evening.